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15 December 2016

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There is a moss forest between the Aseki area and the Bulolo valley. Patrolling through that forest was not only eerie but positively dangerous as well. Not only were the trees and surface completely covered in sphagnum moss but the track itself was built up along fallen tree trunks that were wet and slippery.

You had to walk very carefully and test your foot falls to ensure you didn't disappear down a gap between old, rotten tree trunks and end up wedged in cavities down below where you didn't want to be even if you survived the fall.

With no surface water the locals showed me how they could grab a handfull of moss and squeeze it to get a drink of dirty water. Thinking of my health I politely declined.

It was a relief to emerge into the leafy forest again and eventually arrive at the green Bulolo valley.

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