“My mother was horrified when I was seven years old and told
her my plans to become a nurse in the mountainous jungles of our northern
neighbour,” says Margaret Schellenberger.
“But the day I stepped off that plane in New Guinea and
felt the humid jungle air around me, I knew I was home.
“I was sent to Chimbu, to Kundiawa, from 1960 to 1966. It was
really primitive. I got off the plane and there was this great sea of naked
bodies and it was what I expected, as if I’d already dreamt it all.
“I opened up lots of areas so I was often the first white
woman they saw. There was still some cannibalism when I went to Chimbu. They
were using bows and arrows and they wore feathers and not much else.
“We had a hospital with a special ward for women to
breastfeed pigs. Pigs were worth more than children.
“There were other cultural differences. They would thank
you by rubbing hands up and down your legs. Living in native villages never
fazed me. It was just life.
“When I first moved into the nurses’ quarters, the walls
were literally made of paper and our hot water system was a metal drum with a
fire underneath it, but I loved every moment of it.
“When people came to the hospital, we would give them
three boards to sit on and planks of wood to form their beds. Friends would
sleep under them if they needed to.
“They used to bring their own wood pillows and all their
heads would hang out towards the corridor so you would sweep through their
feathers as you walked by, especially beautiful bird of paradise feathers.”
Her husband Frank lived in PNG from 1950-66.
“I loved being able to get out into the jungle and explore
by myself with a group of native boys. I was adventuring, going to places most
people had never been before.
“It was great as a young bloke being able to buy weapons
over the counter but it was a very dangerous place. Once in Port Moresby, I saw a drunk guy shoot up all
the bottles on the shelf behind the bar.”
“We both came across witchdoctors. A medicine man would
put on his dukduk, a long timber
thing, on his head, and a funny grass skirt, and he’d prescribe that, if a
child swallowed a piece of wood, it would cure tummy pains.
“The witchdoctor used to make this yellowish powder, which
pregnant women would take. He’d tell them to climb a tree and jump off a branch
three times but it would work without doing that last part.
“In 1957, the United Nations stepped in and ordered a
certain level of education and health be achieved in a specific time. But you
can’t take someone out of primitive life with no background and turn them in
one generation into educated people to our standards.
“When I was with the department of land, mines and
surveys, we had a native we trained to be a surveyor. He went home to his
island for three months and he forgot everything he had learned in five years. He
immediately went back to the primitive way of life.”
“At this age, you all start writing your life history and
to me the New Guinea
years are the most interesting part of my history,” Margaret says. “We want the
kids to understand who we are and why we are the way we are. I loved being out
in the jungle.”
Margaret and Frank are now writing a book about their
lives in New Guinea,
imaginatively entitled New Guinea Adventure.
It seems likely to be catalogued in the Fiction section of your local bookshop.
Photo: PNG pioneers Frank and Margaret Schellenberger
Spotter: John Fowke (“Words fail me,” says John, “demeaning,
mindless expat memoir”). From the weighty pages of those fine journals of
record, the Sunshine Coast Daily and the Whitsunday Times
PNG: Time for all the good men to associate
“When bad men combine, the good must associate; else they will fall, one by one, an unpitied sacrifice in a contemptible struggle” - Edmund Burke 1729-97)
David Ulg Ketepa asks on his blog why crime is increasing in PNG.
PNG inherited and enshrined a legal system and has laws that are the equivalent of those in any modern state. These laws derive from the PNG constitution.
In practice, however, it seems the constitution has been compromised by the use of political power.
The Office of the Ombudsman - arbiter of correct parliamentary practice – has been either unable or unwilling to act on complaints against political malpractice, burying responsible government in PNG.
There are many instances where the PNG Ombudsman could and should act. The Moti Report,Taiwan
millions, missing public funds, forestry concessions and many other cases have
all been canvassed in PNG Attitude.
Furthermore, the use of the Speaker of parliament in a tactical political way has effectively created a rubber stamp for the Somare cartel when any debate proves contentious.
So to crime. If PNG leaders ignore the law, why should their people not do likewise?
The long awaited Commission of Inquiry into Financial matters produced an 800-page report, so far effectively ignored.
Crime is like a rotten apple in a barrel. Unless detected and excised early, it spreads its toxin, eventually turning the whole barrel rotten.
In PNG, lawlessness has become a national disease. There are daily news reports of serious breaches of law and order, yet the government does little about it.
The government has lost control of large areas of the country, but is in denial or does not appear to be concerned.
It has been observed that crime is 95% opportunity and 5% intent. Urban drift, lack of employment, poverty and a sense of hopelessness all combine to promote the conditions for crime and violence.
Without effective control, those who see the opportunity for easy money will take a chance.
The Royal Papua New Guinea Constabulary has just been given a pay rise but this seems more to guarantee police loyalty than to combat crime.
The PNG government is implicated in many shady deals; the opposition can do nothing; the institutions enforcing probity are weak; the people are denied accountability and effective law and order; and the police force is under-manned and outgunned.
The answer to David Ketepa's question is another: 'Why should we expect crime in PNG to be decreasing?'
And if Edmund Burke was alive today and living in PNG he would surely be asking, ‘Where are all the good men?’
Posted at 05:42 AM in Commentariat | Permalink | Comments (1)